This must have looked like absolute heaven to beer-starved magazine readers. It's legal again! You can buy it anywhere! Cold! No antifreeze in it, either!

It's an interesting moment in marketing and capitalism: a substance that had been forbidden (but still available) is legalized after a decade off the market. You'd think it would be enough simply to sell it, no? Demand must have been enormous. But right away the brewers and distillers ramped up the brand distinctions, carving off the desired audiences, pitching their appeals to particular audiences.

In a way, it was as if beer had never gone away. The ads never seem to mention that unfortunate period of illegality. Gentleman's agreement. Never happened.