They weren’t kidding about the cheesecake. The Turf bar was famous for its particular recipe. Why? Who knows. Maybe someone doubled the nutmeg by accident. Maybe it was just 10 percent firmer than the stuff you got up the street, or the crust had a bit more butter. It was enough to make a reputation in a city that did not take cheesecake lightly.

The Turf was also the unofficial headquarters – read, booze-nook – for the Brill Building songwriters. It’s gone now, alas. But you can still hear their songs on the radio.

And you can still order the cheesecake.