There’s a world-weary attitude of contempt in Mamma’s quote. Those gluttons. Those sheep. Those idiots, following around their stomach like whores chasing an army on the move. ”

Or perhaps it was intended as a threat; the typeface tells you we’re in the Godfather-era territory here. Oh, they’ll come. They’ll come.

NYT. 1989:

People emerge from the dining room rubbing their bellies, contemplating the long process of digesting seven courses of rich Italian food.

''Oh God, it's terrible to eat that way,'' says a man, groaning, but smiling nonetheless.

An elderly woman asks for a postcard and souvenir menu. Can she please have 29 more for the others in her group?

No problem. Mamma Leone's Ristorante prints 25,000 menus every two months and gives them all away. With 11 dining rooms and 1,250 seats, its owners call it the biggest restaurant in New York City, serving almost 700,000 meals a year.

It closed in 1994.