We return now to the present, for a visit to the Valli as it stands today. A few years ago I dropped in on a deserted summer afternoon, and asked if I could shoot a few pictures. The manager had the usual managerial suspicion, but he let me roam around and click off a few. I was surprised to find how much of the old place remained - and how small it is. How tiny. How did they fit everything into this shoebox - and why did it seem so grand then?