Blount’s. Carlsbad, New Mexico. Owned and operated by one Byrl Blount, a manly meat-cookin’ name if ever there was one. He had the sense to want his restaurant photographed at night, where it achieves a certain pure perfection; in the day, it must have looked like an ordinary building tricked out with some poles and an oversized sign.

The sign had the requisite winking chef, with his fingers making the timeless, official gesture of chef approval.